Winegrower Review issue 40

Reenchanting For several years, within the close circle of seasoned wine lovers, a not-so-funny game has been played called Bordeaux bashing. In a country where cutting heads off is a favorite pastime, the aristocracy of the cork was an easy target for criticism. And never mind if the grand crus represent only 3% of Bordeaux and if 97% of the others are sacrificed on the same altar of misconceptions. Faced with prejudices, we took the path to the vineyard. Because wines, in their multitude, are just as many sips of response to Bordeaux detractors: here too are terroirs, a winemaker's philosophy, and an awakening of environmental awareness. Hasn't Château Latour just hosted a Symposium on agroecology? The taste of Bordeaux has collectively shaped our love for wine. Yet, a strange paradox, at the very moment when its wines were experiencing a spectacular rise, the connoisseur declared that no, indeed, they were getting terribly bored. Could the prohibitive prices be a reason for this lack of love: is Bordeaux the only vineyard whose elite displays three-figure prices? The taste uniformity is also mentioned. Uniformity, really, between the gravelly soils of a Haut-Brion and the clay of a Petrus? In this matter, is Bordeaux at fault? The answer is yes. Is this bashing justified? The answer is no. No other vineyard has had to endure such a witch hunt, even originating from within its own ranks: some Bordeaux restaurateurs obstinately refuse to include Bordeaux wines on their menu. These are the same ones who boast about a few natural wines that all have the distinct characteristic of being alike, with bland flavors and no identity. Uniformity, they say: yes, with a double standard... In Aquitaine, a young generation is rising, holding in the hollow of their barrels wines that offer reconciliation with a rediscovered Bordeaux. At the same time, the classified growths must rise above disputes and trends. Does this mean they can remain indifferent to the advancing world? No, of course not. They must be the leading figures in defending Bordeaux, promoting this reenchantment, no longer existing as a mere "brand" but as a value in a world that sorely lacks it, demystifying, dusting off. But the consumer, if always right, must also take a step, relearn, for example, the virtues of patience: despite the impetuous, it is through aging that the wine here shows the patina of its accent and its unique aromas. Over the centuries, Bordeaux has always found its way. It is highly likely that the 21st century will be no exception. Editorial by Oriane Nouailhac