Revue Vigneron issue 51 (Winter 2022-2023)

Table of contents for issue #51 (Winter 2022-2023):

ENRICO BERNARDO / CHAMPAGNE
The Master Sommelier of the world, who has joined the team at Vigneron, delves into champagne, particularly focusing on the question of dosage: brut, extra-brut, or brut nature?

CHÂTEAU SIMONE
Mythical estate in the micro-appellation Palette, the property of the Rougier family has a unique style, elegance, and wines adored by enthusiasts. We open the doors to "the" Simone.

JEAN-PHILIPPE FICHET
As unassuming and modest as his wines are expressive and remarkable. Jean-Philippe Fichet crafts truthful meursaults. He shares his story with us.

POGGIO DI SOTTO
In the Tuscan landscape, it is both a reference point and a deeply unique sangiovese.
A report from Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the heights of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.

PORTFOLIO / CHÂTEAU DE FARGUES
Property of the Lur Saluces family for 550 years, Fargues is a timeless place. Our collaborator, photographer François Poincet, captures images for a book celebrating this anniversary.
Here are some snapshots of beauty.

SOMMELLIER / GABRIELE DEL CARLO
At the Bulgari Hotel, the newest luxury hotel in the capital, he has created a wine list showcasing Italian wines that is worth exploring. Here is his story and his favorites.

CLOS PUY ARNAUD
One of the first biodynamic winemakers in Bordeaux and a talented self-taught individual who demonstrates the full potential of wines from Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux. Spotlight on Thierry Valette.

CHAMPAGNE / THE CHALLENGE OF A SUSTAINABLE VITICULTURE
Champagne is now moving forward in an orderly fashion on the path to virtuous agriculture. Certifications, commitments, awareness, innovations: the entire appellation is facing the challenge of sustainable viticulture. A special feature.

Editorial by Orianne Nouailhac
TO PUT AN END TO THE TRUTH
There are barriers that arise, minds that heat up, and debates that ignite. Gather a few winemaker friends, put biodynamics on the menu, let it simmer, and a certain fermentation occurs. Yet, by taking a step aside, practitioners are not necessarily proselytizing towards skeptics, and non-believers are not necessarily confirmed polluters. In agreement on the observation - uncertain climate, loss of plant diversity, soil degradation - they will choose a path, their own. You can be biodynamic and not strictly adhere to all of Steiner's precepts. You can be organic and claim that the primary motivation is the synergy between soil and plant to better convey its terroir. You can be conventional and have a clear conscience, practice a "clean" viticulture but refuse to get lost in administrative bureaucracy. So what?
Sincerity, true sincerity, is already about reducing your impact, sustaining the land that bears your steps and yields its fruits, favoring common sense, listening to your intuition. Driven by the frontline army of winemakers, propelled by the force of the houses, virtuous agriculture is making great strides in Champagne. As the entire appellation will be certified Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne by 2030 and organic and biodynamic practices attract new devotees every day, we have met those who are working for the future on a daily basis. Time is of the essence, to be sure, but the road to the renewal of life is a long one. And "the truth is not at the end of the road, it is the road." I