Review 12°5: Grapes and Men, Issue 8

Table of contents: * Vineyard tour: Bandol is synonymous with rosé! Certainly, but Bandol also produces great red wines capable of aging, led by the king grape variety, mourvèdre. * Circum vinum: The Vassal estate in Hérault has the largest grape variety library in the world and is preparing for the future with grape varieties from the past. * Pinsetter: Romain Paire is one of those winemakers who are reviving an appellation that was thought to have fallen into disuse, the Côte-Roannaise. * Exceptional estate: The Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne-Romanée, one of the most brilliant representatives of biodynamic winemaking in Burgundy. * Origin of appellation explained: Châteaumeillant, the viticultural hub of France. * Keys to the cellar: Erwan Botrel, the man with suspenders and a thousand bottles. * Bowling couples: Catherine and Jean-Mary le Bihan, the cream of the crop of the discreet Côtes-de-Duras appellation. * Vineyard vow: at the viticultural high school in Amboise, organic is no longer a taboo. * It's brutal: creating simple things is not Gregoire Boeuf's forte. However, he succeeded in establishing a sakagura (sake brewery) in France. * The eatery cellar: Tapenade, head cheese, fresh goat cheese, and whelks are served in the cellar with wines from Pierre, Aymone, and Pierrick. * Tapas bar: Seasonal picnics and wine-tasting. * Glossary: Barrel, tun, cask, vat, quartaut.