Vino: The Essential Guide to Real Italian Wine by Joe Campanale & Joshua David Stein

Acclaimed Italian wine expert, sommelier, winemaker, and restaurateur, Joe Campanale presents a comprehensive guide that is as transportive as it is deeply educational. Vino delves into the dynamic landscape of Italian wine today, where a new generation of winemakers is moving away from popular international styles, promoting long-forgotten indigenous grapes, and embracing sustainable practices that best suit their local climates.

In an epic quest through Italy’s 20 regions, which takes readers from the steep hills of Valle d’Aosta to the near-tropical climates of Sicily, Campanale uncovers and profiles the diversity of authentic Italian wine and the most exciting, game-changing producers in each region. Readers will discover numerous recommendations for exceptional winemakers and will be equipped with Campanale’s empowering new quality criteria (say goodbye to the Italian wine pyramid). Filled with colorful stories, in-depth examinations of the modern craft, and stunning photography, Vino demonstrates that there has never been a better time to enjoy Italian wine.

Extrait translates to "excerpt" in English.

Introduction

“There’s never been a better time to drink Italian wine.” By this point, this line has been written so often that it has become a cliché. It may seem strange to start a new book with a cliché, but what was true when it was written by Burton Anderson in the 1980s, or by Joe Bastianich and David Lynch in their pivotal 2000 book Vino Italiano, is still true today. That is the signal trait of evolution: constant, steady improvement.

I wrote this book to capture this particular moment in the evolution of Italian wine, and to celebrate the producers who have been responsible for pushing it forward. As you’ll see in the following pages, the coming together of a few interrelated but distinct movements has resulted in a flourishing of truly incredible Italian wines. These wines, in my opinion, deserve a new way of thinking about, or framing, Italian wine, an approach that takes what is in the bottle as just one chapter in a longer, more profound story. Thinking about wines in this way, in their cultural, geological, and human context, has profoundly deepened my enjoyment and appreciation of them.

Over nearly twenty years in the restaurant industry, I have dedicated myself to Italian wine. I have created numerous wine lists centered around Italian selections, tasted thousands of bottles, and visited Italy many times to meet with the most intriguing and influential wine producers in the country. I have taken on various roles - as a scout, explorer, advocate, importer, supporter, and narrator of Italian wine. Above all, I have been a student of it. From this perspective, I have observed how Italian winemakers have truly flourished in the last two decades. Initially, producers, and subsequently, in most cases, markets have shifted away from the conventional wisdom of international grape varieties, the convenience of mass-produced viticulture, and the reliance on the traditional Italian wine hierarchy as the ultimate measure of quality. They have recognized the importance of their native grape varieties and have redirected their focus towards showcasing the terroir of their homeland, their local communities, and landscapes, rather than imitating so-called international wine styles. I have witnessed their contribution to a broader global trend towards sustainability and minimal intervention, and I have experienced firsthand how the results of their efforts more than justify this approach.

Il est temps de réexaminer ce qu'est le vin italien maintenant et, surtout, ce qu'il pourrait être, car les deux se sont considérablement développés. C'est l'idée derrière ce livre : capturer un portrait fidèle du monde multicolore et dynamique du vin italien contemporain. Dans la première partie, je décris les caractéristiques essentielles de ce que j'ai recherché au cours des quinze dernières années en tant que directeur du vin pour de nombreux restaurants axés sur l'Italie.

First I deconstructThe outdated wine pyramid of DOC and DOCG, the governmental designations that have defined Italian wine for the last half century, and then explain my own rubric of quality, the Vino Vero Venn diagram. The VVV, as I call it, plots how a great wine should embody three overlapping values: native grapes, exceptional terroir, and an artisan winemaker well versed in low-intervention methods. can Let those grapes shine. While not every wine falls right in the center of the Venn diagram, that center is the ideal. The Venn diagram isn't, perhaps, as geometrically striking as the wine pyramid, but I've found it to be much more useful as a tool for exploring and reflecting on true wine.

Dans la deuxième partie, I explore a series of exciting new trends, from pet-nats to orange wines to aged white wines and more, that have resulted from the renaissance of artisan wine in Italy.

Et dans la troisième partie, In the lion's share of this book, I take you on a grand tour, embarking on an epic quest through Italy's twenty regions, discovering and celebrating the wonderful wines and producers in each. (There are exceptional wines and producers in every region, no matter how small.) In each chapter, we start with the context—historical, cultural, geographical, political—that has shaped each region's unique character, as rich and diverse, as complex and refreshing as its inhabitants. The differences among the regions vary from subtle to remarkable, influenced by pedology (the study of soil) as well as the ebb and flow of ancient history. I describe the charms and features of, for instance, the steep hills of Valle d'Aosta, or the almost tropical climates of Sicily, illustrating how the interaction between the land and its people has influenced the wines that end up in the bottle. In the next section, I highlight the grape varieties native to each region. (There is, naturally, significant overlap among regions.) While some of these grape names are well-known, many remain relatively unknown. Personally, some of these lesser-known varieties are the most intriguing to me. Lastly, I introduce some of the remarkable producers I've encountered over the past twenty years—many in person, while some only through their wines. These men and women (and, happily, today there are more and more female producers gaining the recognition they deserve) are the lifeblood of this book. It is their commitment and vision that yield authentic wines from their hills, cliffs, valleys, and volcanic slopes. Learning about them, even just through these pages, understanding their stories, enriches the experience and pleasure of savoring their wines.

Press review

"Rather than flash his credentials, [Campanale] The text praises 'Vino' for its welcoming and down-to-earth style, describing it as an easy-to-read guide filled with insightful observations and great recommendations. It highlights the book's opinionated and clear perspective, stating that it is not dispassionate or objective.

"My wineglass has had the privilege of being on the receiving end of many a Joe Campanale pour through the years—always something Italian—and beyond the delicious memories of what I’ve tasted, it’s the boundless enthusiasm, passion, and knowledge with which he uncorks those bottles that leave the most lasting imprint. With Vino, I." can keep enjoying the gift of learning about the ever-evolving landscape of the world’s most soulful (and might I say favorite?) wine region.”—Danny Meyer, author of Setting the Table: The Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business

"My husband's first word was more, and my first word was wine. More wine! I chose the location for my wedding based on my favorite wine in the world. We got married in a vineyard in Montalcino. The most extraordinary wine adventures we've ever had were with Joe. Joe has taught us about anfora/amphora, orange wine, he's opened our minds and hearts to beautiful Lambruscos and wines of every age, shape, and vintner. We love his selections and knowledge, and you will too. Cheers, Joe!" - Rachael Ray, television personality, philanthropist, and author

“This book is timeless. Joe captures the wealth of Italy's history while also looking forward to what’s innovative and thrilling. Bravo!”—Rajat Parr, owner of Phelan Farm

“Rafraîchissante, captivante, merveilleusement personnelle, le livre Vino de Joe Campanale est inspirant et se lit facilement, nous guidant sans effort à travers les styles, les saveurs et les charmes du fantastique monde des vins italiens. Garanti pour vous donner soif.” — Alice Fiering, auteure de Natural Wine for the People

“I have been eating at Joe’s restaurants for years, and I’m thrilled to have this beautiful and thoughtful guide to Italian wine at my fingertips. As a wine novice (but not-so-much a wine-drinking novice) he makes learning about this region, its wines, and the winemakers accessible and exciting. I’m . . . drinking some right now!”—Abbi Jacobson, writer, actor, and producer

"Campanale's meticulous study of an evolving world is nothing short of impressive." - Publishers Weekly